French past-perfect

See France through Molière’s eyes at Troyes, in the north-eastern Champagne-Ardenne region. The town’s medieval centre is clustered with slouching half-timbered houses that lean back to the 16th century. It’s an evocative, strollable place that’s easily reached by Eurostar (eurostar.com) and a connecting train from Paris Est. Pop into part-gothic St John’s church, where Henry V married Princess Catherine of France and demanded (to little avail) that the whole town should speak in English. And do dip-able museums like the Musée D’art Moderne, which displays Gaugin, Matisse et al in a converted bishop’s palace.

Sleepover in centre ville. Exposed-timber corridors lead to contemporary rooms at newly-renovated Hotel de la Poste. It’s the friendliest place - the only drawback is an irresistible window display of chocolate brioches and fruit tarts in the boulangerie across the road! Leave room to eat at cosy Le Valentino (levalentino.com), whose daubed and drizzled plates of seafood resemble works of art.

If that puts you in painterly mood, hire a car and head past vineyard-draped hills to Essoyes to see the garden studio and village locations where Renoir painted. The nearby Espace Renoir museum sits next to a champagne bar selling fab local fizz by the glass. Want to take a few bottles home? Champagne Drappier in Urville (champagne-drappier.com) supply Heston Blumenthal’s restaurants, and you can tour ’n’ taste before you buy.

How much: Doubles from £112 room only, hotel-de-la-poste.com. For train travel, see www. uk.voyages-sncf.com. Car hire: avis.co.uk. For more info, see www.champagne-ardenne-tourism.co.uk.